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The
Gray Whales of Cape Caution:
Sea
Kayaking British
Columbia's Central Coast |
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"The
staff was great. Everyone was not only experienced in kayaking but very knowledgeable
about the region, sea life, geology, and more. It was a learning experience. Excellent! I
would do it again in a flash." Brad Rodgers, Amarillo, TX |
| Sorry, but
this kayak trip has been discontinued!
We will be replacing it in 2008 with a
Johnstone Strait tour to experience the greatest concentration of orca
whales
and migrating salmon in Canada! Please check back for later details.
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Dear
Adventurer:
Thanks for your interest in our British
Columbian sea kayaking expeditions. This Canadian province is an ideal location for sea
kayaking as paddle craft have been the most practical way of traveling its coast for
centuries. British Columbias shore is a seemingly endless labyrinth of fjords,
coves, and islands that range in size from Vancouver Island, the largest in North America,
to tiny islets barely dry at high tide. The coastal region is one of the most fertile on
the continent, and it would be difficult to say whether the sea or the land is richer with
life.
With thousands of miles of glacially-carved
coastline to search, our task of finding the best sea kayaking route in British Columbia
was difficult. Our first objective was to find those few special places that attract large
populations whales during the summer months. Then we sorted among these unique wildlife
magnets for proximity to wilderness beaches, uninhabited islands, and intricate waterways.
After long and careful research, we selected a very remote location on the central coast
called Cape Caution. This ocean-swept headland offers the best blend of abundant whales,
magnificent scenery, and wilderness quietude.
Naturally, one of the most exciting aspects of a
sea kayaking expedition to Cape Caution is the opportunity to see abundant marine wildlife
at close range. In fact, all Sea Quest Expeditions are planned to visit the
favorite haunts of whales, porpoises, seals, and seabirds, thereby maximizing your chances
for memorable encounters. As for whales, there are two kinds we most often see in our explorations of Cape Caution: the gray whale and orca.
These two species represent the full spectrum of whale diversity from the most primitive
to the most advanced. Gray whales are so abundant here that a research camp has been
established for their study. Other marine mammals, including humpback whales, two species
of porpoises, white-sided dolphins, harbor seals, and the threatened Steller's sea lion
are common kayaking companions. Overhead, bald eagles seem to perch on every point of land
as they patiently await migrating salmon. Marine birds, such as puffins and murres, gather
to nest in noisy rookeries. Going ashore, you will see tide pools, teeming with
fascinating creatures, come and go in the wake of enormous twelve-foot tides. Upland
explorations reveal numerous game trails, tracked by the feet of otters, deer, and bears.
Within the ancient forest gallery all sounds seem to be swallowed by the dense foliage and
hanging mosses - as if you've entered a towering emerald
cathedral. Here survives the largest temperate rainforest in the world.
Sea Quest Expeditions
are staffed by experienced sea kayakers and educators. The presence of trained educators
makes our trips different from all other outfitters. We believe a knowledgeable biologist
or environmental scientist can greatly improve your sea kayaking experience--transforming
it into an adventure in learning! We also limit group size to ten participants, thereby
ensuring a close-up view of our natural world. Hopefully, we can be a part of your
adventure plans and I look forward to serving you in the future. Please call me if you
have any questions.
Sincerely,

Martine Springer
Expedition Director |
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| Introduction to the Area: This is a truly unique trip that is virtually unknown to other
sea kayak guides and
outfitters. The dynamic shoreline of Cape Caution supports the highest density of gray
whales anywhere along the British Columbia coast. Drawn by tiny bottom-dwelling organisms
that make up their diet, the barnacle-encrusted gray whales abound in the shallow waters
near shore. These 50-foot long whales feast day and night as they layer on fat reserves to
fuel the longest mammal migration known, and their arching backs and flailing tails will
be a frequent sight as we paddle and camp in their habitat. Other whales of the region
include the orca, found traveling in pods of up to 50 individuals in search of migrating
schools of salmon, and the humpback whale, a species which prefers to dine on small
schools of baitfish and krill in more open waters. Pacific white-sided dolphins are the
rowdiest residents, thrilling everyone with their incredible acrobatic displays.
Dalls and harbor porpoises share the same waters, as do harbor seals and the
1500-pound Stellers sea lion. Marine mammal sightings should be very interesting and
plentiful on this expedition.
The topography of the Cape Caution region varies from exposed,
ocean-swept beaches up to three miles long, to intricate channels and bays dotted with
stark granite rocks and islets. The kayaking conditions are generally protected, but
beware that this trip does have some exposed paddling with ocean swells and perhaps a
couple of landings and launches in small surf. Given favorable conditions, we will be able
to observe the incredible power of Nakawakto Rapids, one of the fastest tidal rapids in
the world (up to 18 knots)! Beginners are welcome to join this trip although it would be
best if they have some familiarity with travel on water beforehand.
Thick green rainforests of hemlock and spruce
crown the islands and numerous streams flow into the sea. A hike up one of these winding
creeks may lead to an deserted hermits cabin, or a beautiful swimming pond
surrounded by wildflowers. Wildlife abounds, from mink and chickarees up to moose, bear
and wolves. The northern Kwagul people called this section of coast their home, and during
the course of the trip we will land at several seldom-visited abandoned village sites. At
low tide, the beaches still yield exquisite flaked-stone tools and blue glass trade bead.
This is a trip of remarkable encounters and unforgettable images. |
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Who
Can Participate: Anyone in average physical
condition can participate -- if you can hike, bike, or swim, you can sea kayak! No previous
paddling experience is necessary. We use extremely stable tandem sea kayaks, very unlike
tipsy whitewater river kayaks. "Eskimo rolls" are not performed in these
state-of-the-art crafts and you will be surprised how easy they are to paddle and
maneuver. Your staff will instruct you on basic paddling technique and sea kayak safety
before leaving the beach. Although our expeditions are not extremely strenuous, we
recommend that participants condition muscle groups of the upper body by doing light
exercise (calisthenics, rowing, swimming, etc.) prior to their expedition. The only other
preparation is to carefully review the pre-trip information and equipment list. Regardless
of your age or skill level, you will find that our expeditions offer enough flexibility to
make your experience with us safe and rewarding. Families are welcome with the a minimum
age of twelve. Children under the age of sixteen must be accompanied by an adult. |
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Expedition Staff: Trip directors of our expeditions
are notably experienced in both sea kayaking and natural history instruction. They possess
an academic degree in one of the natural sciences and have in-depth knowledge of the best
spots for sea kayaking and wildlife-watching. They are also great campfire cooks! This high
level of skill, plus the fact that we have two guides present regardless of the number of
participants, sets us apart from all other outfitters and ensures a more enriching
experience for you. |
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Weather: There's no doubt about it
-- coastal British Columbia is a rainy place! But, the abundant precipitation is crucial
for maintaining the spectacular rain forests, salmon spawning streams, and powerful
glaciers. Of course, there are sunny days in British Columbia, sometimes reaching 75°F or
more. But, on most days you can expect temperatures to be in the 50°s and 60°s, perhaps
dipping into the 40°s during really foul weather. Our clothing checklist, provided when
you make your reservation, takes this into account so that you may enjoy whatever nature
produces - even rain! Strong winds are uncommon during summer
so wave action should be minimal. The paddling route passes through a mixture of both
sheltered and exposed areas. The latter is where we will feel the effects of ocean swells
and surf. Summer sea temperature hovers around 45°F so don't plan on doing much swimming
unless you have the blood of a polar bear. Divers and snorkelers usually wear drysuits in
these waters. Click here to check out some weather links
pertaining to this region. |
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Equipment & Meals: Sea
Quest Expeditions provides all of the kayaking equipment, two-person tents, and cooking
gear. All of our equipment is of the finest quality and reflects our concern for safety
and comfort. Our emergency gear includes communication equipment and expedition first aid
kit. A complete personal equipment checklist and packing instructions are provided upon
confirmation of your reservation. |
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Itinerary:
Please note that spontaneous changes may occur
to this itinerary due to the Mother Natures whims!
Day 1: Rendezvous with your guides at the Government Wharf
at the foot of Granville Street at 1:00pm. We will meet outside the Coast Guard office
located on the wharf. After boarding the MV Akatak we will enjoy a 1½ hour ferry ride
across Queen Charlotte Strait. Our destination is our basecamp located in a protected cove
at the start of our paddling route. After settling into camp for the evening, we will
proceed with a kayaking safety class and orientation.
Day 2: After an early breakfast we load the kayaks and set
off northward to wind our way through the myriad small islands that make up the Southgate
Group. Our route takes us through waters that are a prime feeding ground for gray whales.
Our camp on Bramham Island is adjacent to the gray whale research camp operated by CERF
(the Coast Ecological Research Foundation). Research schedules permitting, we will receive
a presentation by the biologists on their work and get an opportunity to visit their
research camp.
Day 3: Paddling out of camp in the early morning, we make
our we along the strikingly rugged shore of Bramham Island. The granite island stands like
a fortress against the turbulent forces of the Pacific Ocean. Our destination is Burnett
Bay; a four-mile long expanse of sandy beach that is one of the most exceptionally
beautiful places on the entire central coast of British Columbia. The remote location, and
a boat landing that favors only sea kayakers, means that very few people visit this bay
over the course of a year. Burnett Bay is another favorite feeding spot for gray whales
and our camp here is an ideal site from which to observe them as they forage through the
kelp forests.
Day 4: A day for exploring a few of the splendors provided
by Burnett Bay. Daylight hours are quite long and there is time for photography, fishing,
beachcombing, or just lounging around. Your expedition staff is available at all times to
lead walks, identify flora and fauna, and discuss the natural history of the area. You may
choose to hike up the beach to search for interesting flotsam or to observe the whales
feeding in the kelp beds just offshore. Or perhaps a hike up the creek next to camp may
yield some discoveries. Sharp eyes will spot tracks in the sand that testify to the
diversity of wildlife in the area. Those with an interest in history may follow a side
trail to a hidden cove and ancient village site, or another that leads to a forsaken
hermits cabin. The romantics in the group will surely be attracted to the freshwater
pool nestled into a meadow of wildflowers for a quick dip. After watching the sun set over
the Pacific Ocean, a crackling driftwood fire will ease our souls.
Day 5: Bidding farewell to Burnett Bay we point our bows
south to Slingsby Channel and Nakawakto Rapids. The mountains of the coast range loom over
Seymour Inlet at the end of the channel. Your guides will plan the trip down Slingsby
Channel to be in harmony with the powerful tides that make Nakawakto one of the
worlds fastest tidal rapids.
Day 6: Paddling down Schooner channel, we enter the aptly
named Murray Labyrinth, a complicated group of exquisite islands. Working our way through
this maze in a southerly direction, we will find an opening that leads to our final
campsite. The powder white sand of this unique beach seems like an oasis compared with the
relentlessly rocky shoreline of the central coast. At low tide the beach reveals artifacts
from the native village of Ahwatse that once stood on this spot.
Day 7: This will be a leisurely morning of packing gear
next to the tranquil cove and reflecting on the experiences of the past week. The MV
Akatak will arrive at 11:00am to carry us across the Queen Charlotte Strait to Port Hardy.
Our arrival time should be sometime shortly after 1 PM.
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| Trip fee: $1099 with a maximum of ten participants. This price does
not include GST tax of 3.5%, travel to
Port Hardy, ferry boat transportation of approximately $100, accommodations or meals in town, or
optional tipping of guides.
Dates
2006:
late June to early Sept - dates to be announced |
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Logistics: This expedition
begins in the town of Port Hardy on the north tip of Vancouver Island at the end of
Highway 19. Vancouver Island is reached via British Columbia Ferries from Vancouver
(either Tsawwassen or Horseshoe Bay terminals) or, for those on the "grand tour of
BC", from the northern town of Prince Rupert. Sailing from Vancouver is obviously the
most popular route, but does require a five-hour car or bus ride north to Port Hardy.
Sailing from Prince Rupert is a truly incredible experience as the 15-hour trip cruises
the Inside Passage past many remote settlements, finally ending in Port Hardy (so a
car/bus would not be needed on this route). You can get to Prince Rupert via air flight,
the Alaska-bound ferry from Bellingham WA, or the highways of interior British Columbia. BC
Ferry note: waiting lines of several hours is not uncommon during summer so please
schedule yourself to arrive early at the terminals. Crossing the US/Canada border by car
may also involve a long wait during some busy summer days. Please do not schedule too
tightly around either of these particular travel events!
Bus service to Port Hardy from Vancouver occurs on a
daily basis. Please call Maverick Coach Lines (604) 662-8051 to confirm the following
schedule: depart Vancouver from 1150 Station St (Main and Terminal) at 6:00am, arrive Port
Hardy 4:00pm. On the return leg, the bus leaves Port Hardy from 7210 Market St. at 8:45am,
and arrives Vancouver at 7:10pm. The cost is $58 one-way, $112 rt. and includes all taxes
and ferry transportation. Quick Shuttle Service provides regular transportation from
SeaTac airport in Seattle to the Sandman Inn in downtown Vancouver. A one way fare is $28,
roundtrip fare is $49. For more information please call (800) 665-2122.
Regional airlines also provide service to Port Hardy.
Air travel reservations are best made well in advance of departure as
this is a popular and incredibly scenic way to get to travel the coastal
area. North Vancouver Air Services and Pacific Coastal Airlines flies
from Vancouver daily for about $190 rt. Sound Flight offers scheduled
seaplane service from Lake Washington near Seattle's main airport for
about $240 rt. If you would like professional
assistance with making your travel and accommodation reservations,
including flights, hotels, B&B's, etc., we suggest you speak with
Samantha, our recommended travel agent. Samantha specializes in
assisting Sea Quest guests and has the unique knowledge about our
destinations and programs that make her much more useful than a typical
travel agent. She can be reached at 360-378-4600 or via her website
http://www.cmagent.net/samanthag.html |
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Accommodations: Since you will be
rendezvousing with us in Port Hardy at 9:00am on Sunday to begin the
trip, and have a pre-trip meeting on Saturday night at 8:30pm, overnight accommodations are
highly encouraged for Saturday evening. The trip ends at 1:00pm on Saturday,
therefore most travelers will
have time to begin their travels south on the same day. However, we expect a large number
of our guests will want to stay in the area for some additional time to enjoy the
surrounding attractions of sport fishing, wilderness hiking in the 40,000 acre Cape Scott
Provincial Park, and regional tours. There are many inns and bed & breakfast
establishments in Port Hardy. On short notice accommodations may be hard to find, and we
recommend that you make reservations as far in advance as possible. The following list of
accommodations are all addressed in Port Hardy, BC, V0N 2P0; and have telephone area codes
of (250):
Our preferred location is the Seagate Hotel, 8600
Granville St, Box 28; 949-6348 (Allow us to make your reservation so that we can obtain a
discount for you from their normal rate.)
Airport Inn, 4030 Byng Rd, Box 2039; 949-9434
The Pioneer Inn, 4965 Byng Rd, Box 699; 949-7271
Pt Hardy Inn, 9040 Granville St, Box 1798; 949-8525
Glen Lyon Inn, 6435 Hardy Bay Rd, Box 103; 949-7115
Thunderbird Inn, 7050 Rupert St, Box 88; 949-7767
Kay's B&B, 7605 Carnarvon Road, Box 257; 949-6776
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More Important Numbers:
Tourism British Columbia – 1-800- HELLO BC / 1-800-435-5622
Alaska Marine Highway (800) 642-0066 (the ferry system) & Alaska Railroad - (907)
265-2623
British Columbia Ferries (206) 441-6865, (604) 685-1021, or recorded info (604) 277-0277;
http://bcferries.bc.ca/
Recreational Fisheries/Dept of Fisheries & Oceans (604) 666-2768 (ask for regulations
& license info) |
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